You have to select x4 for 4 DIMMS... Which I included in the price. The PSU I linked to is actually manufactured by Seasonic, which is better than a 750W CWT Corsair. Who makes a PSU and what components are in it are infinitely more important than the specs that the rebrander puts on it. A PC with the listed components will use about 300W at load, which means you're well within the 50-75% load range where the PSU is working at its greatest efficiency. If you plan to add a second GPU, then the Antec High Current Gamer 900W(rebranded Delta) is a good option. I only use Seasonic or Delta PSU's in my builds.
Well after about 10 crashes today ive changed my mind. I will not be building a computer for this game simply because the game is in a ****** state. Its not worth my time and money to spend on a computer to play a game that is obviously broken and has been broken for over a year now. Soe you need to fix this **** seriously. This may be a f2p game but its suffering from bugs, and its just not fun to play a game that CONSTANTLY crashes for no reason at all. I find it hard to believe that people can tolerate this level of laziness when it comes to fixing a game. I wont be buying a new comp and if i do i can promise you it wont be for this game.
The computer I designed there will be good for any game currently out, and even for 3D work and video editing. I totally agree with PS2 being broken. You can pretty much run anything on either of those. I'd add a UPS as well. The game does run horribly, and in between patches, which leads me to believe that its the server's problem sometimes. I do have occasional crashes, and PS2 does keep me using over 7GB of RAM, and does have menus that behave like power viruses, so I have my GPU at a 20% underclock.
I don't follow your logic Jester, your old PC is having issues and because of this you now don't want to replace it with one that wont?
Look at the threads in this section 90% of them are about the game crashing. Even with new systems people are having the same problem and upgrading to a new comp wont fix anything until SOE fixes this game. I would be playing the same broken game on a better computer. Thats my logic.
I have i5 overclocked to 4.4, sabertooth z77 mobo, 16 gig ram, gtx 680 and win 7 ultimate. Since pu2 I have no crashes and constant 60 fps on ultra
I guess the fact I don't crash, and that there are hundreds who don't isn't a good enough reason to counter the 20 who have?
Possibly. Just really frustrating to have to restart this game over and over. I just dont want to spend 1200$ on a comp to deal with the same thing.
There are some good suggestions by non-idiots here so let me just keep my advice at a general level. 1. NEVER skimp on PSU. EVER. There is a significant chance you will completely regret it, buy quality and buy slightly more than your likely to need. Last choice in a build, not the least important. 2. PS2 loves the CPU, but that also means it loves the ram. 8 gig is ideal, but 1333 is about as high as you realistically need. With CPU comes down to an open question really, PS2 is sigificantly better mutlithreaded than it used to be and my fx8350 at 4.51 loves it. Saying that, from a purely architectural point of view I love the 3570k, thats a modern classic, 3d transistors, wowzers last time intel engineers really gave a ****. 3. If haswell is more expensive than ivy don't get it, if its the same price, consider how much you want to OC, they don't do it as well, and the marginal performance improvements in throughput at stock, will rapidly be extinguished if you have an ivy at 4.5 and a haswell at 4.1. Ocing is allways getting the most bang for your buck, done well its no issue but is about 2-3 hours of work and tweaking. 4. SDD's are cool and all, but unless the game involves texture streaming (bad design anyway really) they are just for making loading screens super quick. 5. GPU is a though one these days, you want Physx when it eventually gets back in its nvidia, you don't care probs side with ATI. Anything above a 650ti/7870 will more than suffice, anything more than a 670/770/7950 your spending way too much. 6. DO NOT underestimate the importance of a case and good airflow to overall temps, and thus OC ability and overal lifespan (often by several months) of a PC. Beyond that it comes down to preference and what else you intend to do with it, for god sakes unless your a professional video or texture artist or summit don't be a dingus and get an i7.
Thanks for the post, lots of good advice. I have oc'd before so its not a big deal for me to do it again just have to make sure you're confident with what you're doing. Oc'ing a cpu is fairly simple but messing with ram timings and voltage is where you need to ask yourself do you want be buying new ram when you destroy what you're messing with now. Unless there's a huge difference in ghz i dont worry too much about oc'ing. I agree about the psu, im always an advocate of more power as opposed to less. The worst thing you can do to a system is underpower it. I was under the impression that ssd's had faster access time across the board but that might be the case with ps2 so maybe its just a knee jerk reaction to buying whats new instead of the older disk-based hd's. As of right now i have an nvidia 660 ti but i would probably get the 670 or 770 so i dont have to upgrade again. All my cases have so many fans in them it sounds like a wind tunnel sometimes. Im not a big fan of water cooling but if i had to make a choice i would say water over air unless you keep your ambient temp super cool. Ive modded many cases before but would rather just buy one now that has ample flow for my next comp.
Well I think the decision you need to make then is, is do I want a haswell, which probably won't be a stable upgrade path is intel change the socket again (which given their drive to make their SoC GPU better, might be the case.) or do I want an ivy which despite being old any only 1-2 pounds cheaper, will still OC by a fair bit more.
Ivy Bridge and Haswell don't overclock as well as Sandy Bridge, because they used cheaper thermal interface than the solder they used in Sandy Bridge, as well as having 3D transistors that not only have a higher power density, and are more prone to hotspotting, but also operate more efficiently at lower clocks. I am not saying to get a lower power PSU, but getting a good quality one is the most important thing. A 780Ti is a good value, if you need it. Saying anything above a 670 is a waste of money is pretty ridiculous, especially if he doesn't want to have to upgrade any time soon. The best values right now are the 660, 660Ti, 770, 780 and Titan(not for gaming, for the double precision). A $5000 Quadro K6000 is also a good value, if you need it. If he's playing at greater than 1920x1080 he's going to want at least a 770, probably a 780. And you don't need a loud chassis for good ventilation. I have a very quiet PC that stays extremely cool.
The Lian Li PCK-7B that I linked to. It's high quality, it's good value, it's quiet, and has good airflow. I designed a system for my Australian friend who has to keep his PC in a room that gets to 100F in the summer, so I used a HAF 932 Advanced, which is pretty quiet and has much more airflow. It depends on what you need, really.
